We couldn’t resist the temptation—being so close to Greece while in Turkey, we just had to hop over to Samos for a taste of the Greek Islands. Departing from Kuşadası, we were ready for our next little adventure before our main event - Sailing in Turkey!
Now, a heads up, if you’re making this trip—passport control at the port, is slow. Like, really slow. And when you’re standing in the sun with a 17kg backpack, it’s not exactly a picnic. We waited about an hour at least, and trust me, It's not like we were early! I think if the wait had dragged on much longer, there would have been a storming of the port as many were beginning to exhibit signs of frustration.
But once we were on board the ferry, the stress melted away. It’s just a simple one and a half-hour boat ride across the water, but as we approached Samos, it felt like we were entering a whole new world. The vibe, the architecture—everything was different, and we couldn’t wait to explore.
The Samos Welcome: A Little Bump in the Road
First things first—we were told we needed a car to really see the island. Samos is big, and the bus system isn’t exactly reliable. So, after clearing passport control (again) at the ferry terminal in Samos (Vathy), we headed straight across the road to pick up our rental car. Our accommodation was on the other side of the island, so we needed wheels.
We were greeted by a lively and friendly woman at Hertz—things were looking good. That is, until she asked for my driver’s license, and I realized it was sitting safely in Vienna, far from where it was needed. I did have a photo of it on my phone, but nope, that wouldn’t cut it. So, what now? A taxi would cost around 50 euros, and then we’d be stuck with limited transport options. Not ideal for our budget trip... or spontaneity.
I walked outside to Phoebe, who was guarding our luggage, to break the bad news. But then she reminded me—she had her driver’s license with her. Sure, she’s 18 and still on her P plates, but it was worth a shot. Surprisingly, they accepted it with just a small extra fee of 10 euros per day due to her age. Deal. But there was a catch—she had to drive, and if we got pulled over, I wasn’t legally allowed to take the wheel.
And so began Phoebe’s initiation into driving on the ‘wrong side’ of the road in Europe. I reassured myself that her younger, more adaptable brain would handle the adjustment better than mine. And I was right. Don’t get me wrong—I had my moments of anxiety, but that was more about me not being in control, not her driving skills. She did an awesome job.
A Hair-Raising Adventure: The Road to the Remote Beach
Then came the day we decided to seek out the most remote beach we could find. In hindsight, not our best idea. The drive took us to the edge—literally.
Picture this: We’re high on a cliff, about to descend on a dirt road that’s more like a narrow path barely wide enough for one car. It’s covered in stones, rocks, massive potholes, and rivulets—definitely more suited to a serious 4x4 than our little rental. And let’s not forget the steep cliff edges with no barriers and the occasional little landslide.
Fun, right?
After quite a few hair-raising kilometers, we finally found a spot to turn around—precariously. I knew I had to take the wheel for this one. If something went wrong, I’d rather it be me behind the wheel than her. Phoebe got out to guide me and help balance the car’s weight. Later, she told me she thought I was over the edge a couple of times as I had to floor the accelerator to get movement over the rough terrain.. but not too much or I was a goner! I managed to get us out, but my knuckles were white, and I could barely breathe until we were safely back on even ground.
Was this the moment I’d finally pushed my luck too far? Maybe. But we made it, and as we reached the top of the hill and saw the little village where we began our descent from, we looked at each other with that unspoken look of relief. We promised each other that the next stop would be a very touristy beach—with a stiff drink.
When we reported back to our guest house host (it was on his recommendation that we went there), he was surprised to hear about the state of the road. He figured it must have been the rains earlier in the year. Yep, living in rural Queensland for 12 years, I’d reached the same conclusion.
And the fact that we didn’t encounter another car or person on that harrowing drive?
Well, I’d say the locals knew better than to take that road.
So, if you decide to visit this little slice of paradise, maybe hire a boat or at least check the road conditions first. I wish I’d taken some video footage, but it felt like a life-or-death situation, and shoving a camera in Phoebe’s face might have sealed my fate—at least in her eyes.
Exploring Samos: From Pythagorio to Manolates
Phoebe’s driving adventures didn’t stop there. One day, she/we navigated the busy southern Pythagorio harbour front, lined with boats, restaurants, and pedestrians, in search of a parking spot. Another day, we drove up the mountain to Manolates, without any clue about the famous and gorgeous village awaiting us.
We parked in a public lot and wondered why such a big car park existed in the middle of nowhere. As we wandered through the hilly, narrow streets, we were pleasantly surprised to find charming cafes, gift stores, galleries, and local products. Both of these spontaneous adventures turned into wonderful experiences.
I loved this island so much that I even started looking at real estate—yes, we checked out a house for sale. It would have been an amazing buy with direct beach access and a large property, but it needed a big renovation, which just isn’t where I’m at right now.
So, I passed it up—but yes, it was tempting!
What We Loved:
The wild sage growing along the side of the hiking trails
Beautiful Fresh and local food including loads of seafood
Brilliant local wines
Friendly people who made us feel welcome
Incredible hiking opportunities with stunning views
Ancient culture that’s rich and fascinating
Stunning beaches and soaring mountains that take your breath away
Mountain villages of Manolates and Koumeika
Pythagorio - yes it's busier but it's full of beautiful shops, restaurants and cafes and beautiful protected waters to swim in.
Our Accommodation: A Hidden Gem Near Karlovasi
We stayed near Karlovasi, on the northwest side of the island, at a beautiful guesthouse that doubles as a retreat centre (yep, watch this space!) called Ocea Retreat.
The sunsets were incredible, and we had our very own private beach. The resident pets added to the charm, and the hosts were fabulous—always ready with helpful suggestions and a warm smile (we forgave the hair-raising adventure).
Food Highlights:
Pythagorio: Faros Restaurant - Not so much a food highlight although we did enjoy our meal, we managed to get lounge chairs and umbrellas on the beach at no extra charge and spent a good few hours here. The staff were fabulous too!
Karlovasi:
Bakery - Λυμπερης Ζαχαροπλαστειο (I don't have the English translation - it's next to the supermarket so a great stop for supplies. German and English-speaking woman, great coffee and sandwiches and treats.
Great cocktails at Charisma along the harbour waterfront
Best Gyros at Dino in the main square - delicious and great quality ingredients .. and cheap!
Rendevous for Grilled local specialties - also along the waterfront
Samos Town: Yiannis Ouzeri - recommended by locals and doesn't disappoint! Delicious food from the Samos style artichokes to the slow-cooked octopus and more.
Down south:** More delicious eats to discover
Koumeika
Sama Restaurant - just bloody delicious and super quaint village - sitting in the square - a definite favourite.
Ormos
Trata Restaurant - Freshest fish and seafood on the beach! What more to say?
Beaches:
So many - I doubt you can go too far wrong and so many to choose from.
A Tip.. if it's windy in the north.. head to the south.. and visa-versa.
We really only scratched the surface but here's a few:
Potami - close to our accommodation in Karlovasi
Avlakia Beach for a quiet beach, avoiding the northern winds on the days it blows and be able to do a decent swim.
Pythagorio in front of Faros Restaurant - if we were closer this would have easily been a regular spot. Loved it.
Limnionas Beach - This is where we should have stayed before our adventure to Plaka Bay (the infamous remote beach we were hunting down).
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